Dunes of Heather

  Loch Tay Between the castle and the Loch— a long way by car— we harness wet shadowless views of fells and sloped valleys. Between the bald hills and our partially cobbled way, dunes of heather roll out like quilts over the bracken-covered hillocks where sheep graze quietly, unaware of anything but the taste of […]

Black Sheep Reflections

Five years ago about this time, Eric and I were on our way back from Scotland. We didn’t take in the entire West Highland Way on foot as planned, but our black sheep guides (all of them) deserve a whiskey toast. To Leave Is One Thing By the time we get back to Glasgow the thistle […]

Slow Steps, Hard Work

What to say of tomorrow’s slow steps? The peaks that rise from Glencoe carry weathered echoes and gorges sliver slowly without sympathy. The only way to plea away erosion is to chart the heart’s geology and listen to the bagpiper’s ageless song. The only way to get up the mountain is hand in hand. for […]

The True Weight

West Highland Way, August 2011; a little tough, a little glorious   The True Weight We make a list of all our favorite moments— best hikes, finest meals— skipping over the hard parts—when boots filled with muck and rain froze our hands and spun through the plastic of our water-proof coats, each cursed step you […]